Recreating Migration Period Accessories
We started thinking about the Dark Ages a long time ago, in the time of our reenacting youth. All these square-headed and radiate-headed brooches, enamelled eagles and exquisite Kentish brooches were striking to the imagination! But no one was making them.
New Migration Period jewellery before release- Armour and Castings
After years, already as craftsmen, we noticed this unfair disproportion at the historical reenactment market again. Many sellers offered the products for the Viking Age - somehow this started even before the popular TV series, and we can't explain this. Medieval accessories were less widespread, although there still was a choice. But as for the period from the 4th to 8th centuries, there were only a few craftsmen who did the appropriate accessories. Although their quality was really great, it wasn't an affordable product.
We were in love with Migration period! The variety of shapes and patterns, rich gemstones, juicy colours... There were so many beautiful accessories that were worthy of a new life. And the ‘Dark Ages’ deserve to be more popular among re-enactors - it's a cradle of the Western civilisation and it's hard to underestimate the meaning of this period. So, we decided to try to make all this luxury more available for the reenactment society, although we weren't sure people would be interested in this period.
Then, we got a request for a custom order- the replica of Domagnano Treasure- and this gave us hope and confidence, just in time.
The Domagnano Treasure, in San Marino’s State Museum
Our "Saxon" collection was started in autumn of 2021 with a bunch of rings. We call it "Saxon" for short, although there are not only Saxon accessories, but Merovingian, Lombardian, Frankish, Germanic and Anglo-saxon. We really wanted these names to sound in the reenactment world! After months of preparing, reading the books and researching the sources, drawing and modeling, 8 rings of the Migration period were developed and released. We tried to make them affordable, using the glass stones instead of the natural ones. We also used the enamel instead of thin garnet inlays that were so popular in the Migration period. Honestly it still amazes us - how did they manage to make such thin inlays??
The rings collection was a success, especially our replica of the famous Escrick ring, and we proceeded to the brooches.
Development of the brooches was in full swing in February 2022 when the war started. We can't say it was unexpected - it's rather like everyone was hoping until the last moment it wouldn’t happen.
Luckily, Kyiv has stood, and we were able to continue working.
Migration period brooches are absolutely incredible in their variety - and at the same time, they can be clearly systematised. There are two most spread groups: long (bow) brooches and circular (disc) brooches. Both types were found across Europe from Eastern Europe to Scandinavia and British Isles, and dated from early 5th to 11th centuries.
Originating from the Roman Iron age bow brooches, the long brooches reached their prime in the 5th-6th centuries. From humble clasps, they evolved into beautiful radiate and square-headed, small-long and cruciform brooches, and perhaps the most famous - great square-headed brooches. Decorated with exquisite patterns, the Great square-headed brooches were not only the clasps for clothing but the marks of status - a lot of them were found in the graves of the high-ranked women. Analysis shows that each brooch was unique, and probably custom made for its owner.
While the long brooches were going out of fashion at the end of 6th century, the circular brooches on the contrary began to gain their popularity to stay in the peak till 11th century. Among them there are saucer brooches, button brooches, annular and penannular fibulas and gorgeous jewelled disc brooches. The styles varied from simple copper alloy cast examples to luxurious ones made from gold and adorned with filigree and cloisonné decoration, nacre, pearls and gemstones. If you somehow haven't seen any of them, just google "The Kingston Brooch" and you'll be in awe.
Besides the long and disc brooches, there was a variety of miscellaneous forms like birds, S-shaped brooches, fishes, safety-pins, strip, ottonian and rectangular brooches. All of them are just an endless source of inspiration for our small team.
In our Saxon collection we tried to cover all varieties of the Migration period jewelry including the brooches, rings, earrings, pendants, pins and belt decorations. At the moment, the collection counts 33 titles and we're still working on it, releasing the new items in small series. We're going to represent a new bunch of accessories which includes the pin, pendant, two radiate-headed brooches and two rings within a couple of weeks. And we would be really glad if there were more Migration period lovers in the world!
© Written by Maria Kovaleva from Armour and Castings for the Living Medieval Magazine, 2023
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Photos descriptions:
New Migration Period jewellery before release
Reproductions of the Domagnano Treasure in San Marino’s State Museum. Photo: https://europenomad.wordpress.com/2015/10/21/scaling-the-three-towers-of-san-marino/
Migration period rings in progress.
Saxon collection by Armour And Castings - 1st release.
Some wax models before the casting.
Computer modeling of square-headed brooches.
Wax model of 6th century Great square-headed brooch from Jutland, Denmark.
Frankish square-headed brooch in progress.
Merovingian gold brooch with garnet inserts, 7th century. Photo: https://antique-brooches.com/merovingian-brooches-information-and-history
Armour and Castings replica of Anglo-Saxon fish brooch 5-8th century. Found in Westbere (Anglo-Saxon cemetery), Kent, UK.
Early Anglo-Saxon brooches from Chessell Down, early 6th century. Photo: British Museum.
Kentish Jewelled disc brooch, late 6th-early 7th century. Photo: British Museum